Hair Removal Waxing: Hard Wax Vs. Hot Wax
There are two main forms of wax for hair removal: hard wax, also known as the non-strip method, and hot wax; also known as the strip method. Between these two methods are several varieties such as cold wax and sugar wax. The type of wax chosen for hair removal depends on the body part, direction of hair growth and the applicants skill.
Types of Hair Removal Wax
Waxes are grouped together by their source: e.g. animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic. Most waxes have a melting point between 105 – 212 degrees Fahrenheit; however, additives such as gum rosin are frequently added to adjust the melting point for a given wax.
While the non-strip wax method has become more popular, due to its speed of application. Hard wax is less irritating on the skin, and proven to be an ideal hair removal treatment for sensitive areas, such as the bikini line and in areas where hair grows in different directions, such as the underarms.
Hard Wax for Hair Removal
Hard wax is commonly blended with a resin called rosin, which generally consists of beeswax, candelilla wax and carnauba wax. This mixture helps improve the strength of the wax and modify its melting point.
Until the invention of strip wax, hard wax was the most popular form of hair removal in salons. But hard wax was soon overtaken by strip wax’s speed and effectiveness; technicians could remove hair from large areas such as the back and chest in far less time using strip wax.
However, hard wax is beginning to make a comeback. People who use anti-aging treatments such as AHA or Retin-A are finding hard wax to be a gentler alternative to strip wax.
The reason for this lies in hard wax’s lower temperature. It also allows the wax to set on the skin much faster than the strip method.
Waxing Pubic Hair, Facial Hair and Underarms
Recently, there has been an increased demand for the Brazilian bikini wax, which removes all pubic hair. Hard wax is ideal for Brazilian waxes because of its unique ability to grab hair without adhering to the skin. Strip wax cannot be used on the labia for this very reason.
Underarm hair removal is also best treated with hard wax. Underarm hair grows in different directions, which is difficult to remove with the strip method.
Pros of Hard Wax for Hair Removal
- Hard wax doesn’t distort the hair follicle. The strip method pulls hair against the direction of growth, which causes distortion.
- Hard wax is less irritating to the skin than hot wax
- Hard wax works well on areas where hair grows in multiple directions
- Hard wax works best for sensitive areas such as the face, eyebrows and pubic areas.
- Hard wax can be used (with caution) on people using glycolic acid or other AHA skin-care products.
- Hair regrowth is seen within 6 to 12 weeks.
- Hair regrowth is generally softer and thinner after repeated waxings.
Cons of Hard Wax
- Hard wax is slower to apply than hot wax.
- Hard wax is difficult to use for women who are menstruating.
- Hard wax cannot use the “blending” method for hair removal. Strip works well for areas which may require multiple waxings.
Hot Strip Wax for Hair Removal
Hot strip wax is the most popular form of hair removal in salons, and for good reason. It is faster and cheaper to do than hard wax, with the same level of effectiveness. There are, however, certain instances when strip wax is not the ideal method.
Hot strip wax works best on large areas of the body. First, the technician will apply wax using a wooden spatula (or disposable applicator). Excess wax should be removed from the spatula prior to application.
Hot wax should always be applied in the direction of hair growth, then removed against hair growth.
Apply strips over the wax, and ensure there is enough free space at the edge for easy removal. For comfort, the strips should start in an area where there is no hair growth (thereby making removal easier).
Then, use your free hand to keep the skin taut while quickly removing the strip. It’s important to follow through with the removal to ensure all hairs are effectively removed.
Strips are applied adjacent to the area previously waxed until the process is complete.
Pros of Hot Strip Wax for Hair Removal
- Quick and easy to use
- Less irritation due to speed of waxing
- Hot wax opens up skin pores, making hair removal easy
- Possible hair reduction after repeated waxings.
- Regrowth is usually softer and finer
Cons of Hot Strip Wax for Hair Removal
- Rosins can attach to the skin, which is the primary cause of skin irritation
- Hair must be 1/4 inch long before re-waxing (as opposed to shaving or tweezing)
- Hot wax can be very messy if done at home
- Hot strip wax does not work for Brazilian bikini waxes or areas where hair grows in different directions
Waxing Tips
- Hair should be at least 1/4 inch long if it is virgin (untreated hair). If the hair has been previously waxed or shaven, it should be at least 1/2 inch long for waxing (generally 10 – 14 days after shaving).
- Four days before waxing, lift any ingrown hairs. This allows the hair follicle time to heal before waxing.
- One day before waxing, stimulate your skin with a loofah. Do not do this the day of waxing, as it overstimulates the skin and causes irritation.
- Avoid exposure to sun and/or tanning salons one day before and after waxing.
- If your skin is dry, apply lotion in the morning, but not immediately before the waxing.
Read more about bikini waxing and waxing tips for men.
